Day 11: Claydon Bay to Sullivan Bay

Another fairly short commute to this amazing little floating community and as we arrived the sun finally crept out of hiding, revitalizing everyone’s spirits. Kind of like being in Water World–all the amenities are floating on docks including private homes and tiny businesses. One house boat had a sea plane tied up to his back deck! If you traverse the docks completely it is a 1.3 mile exercise event. Definitely needed this as it has been hard to get off the boat these past three rainy days. Chaiya really enjoyed this friendly port and was able to get out on deck as well as race back and forth that evening until he wore himself out, our little wild cat.

Did some laundry, recharged and provisioned scantily due to the obscene prices. Then Happy Hour was a fun event where the tradition is for everyone to bring small “appy’s” and BYOB. After sharing who and where we are from and other stories about this remote area, we walked over to the manager’s dock and tried our hand at golf. The idea is to hit the ball off the dock 140 yards out and try to hit the flag on a buoy. The closest ball to the flag gets a free baked item in the am and if you actually hit the flag you win free nights Moorage here! Of course we had to try though I have never swung a golf club in my life. No one hit the flag but Bill won the baked goods when his ball sailed within a meter of the target! Lucky shot! For a first time hit Donna did as well and better than other women there with experience, actually launching the ball off the tee without losing the club in the drink! Apparently that happens from time to time.

The water here is lake fed with lots of tanin in it. Reminiscent of Vashon Island growing up with tea leaf colored water from the springs. We filled up for the next three days until we can get water again. Talked with folks on the dock and played Rumikube until the light faded well after 10 pm. Still can’t get used to only six hours of darkness barely each night.

Day 10: Turnbull Cove to Claydon Bay

Rain continues as we move on to a nearby cove where we are more likely to bag some crab. What else can you do in the rain! Our first catch got us three females and a male, all Dungeness…he was delicious! We moved the pot to the outer entrance afterward and left it all night. Got a bunch by morning but only one very large Dungeness keeper. Rain let up this this first day enough to dinghy to a tiny rock island which circumnavigated in no time flat. Lots of shells and sea life with tons of berries which we were not brave enough to sample. Probably currants and enough to make a pie but who wants to chance it with no cell service or medical facilities. This was a lonely anchorage and we wary for bears on that island but to no avail. Of course later in the day came more rain, rain, rain…

Day 9: Watson Cove to Turnbull Cove

We are in Dolphin heaven! I never expected to see so many dolphin up here in BC but we are getting our fill and then some. This morning’s cruise we actually watched them breach completely out of the water several times near our starboard, showing us just how large they really are. Not Flipper-sized but certainly far bigger than the small porpoise of lower Puget Sound. As soon as we get a signal we will figure out the actual species.

Not one boat in sight after nearly three hours cruising and we feel like we have this world to ourselves. Seeing signs of lifting fog as we cruise along and the rain has finally stopped which makes for some interesting black and white photos luckily. Low lying clouds in the unending supply of mountains here really makes us think of our usual northwest drizzle at home. There is a definite cooler weather zone up here which we were told about but should hopefully turn to sun by Monday. The beauty here reminded us of that old ’80’s tag line: Super. Natural. British Columbia! Thinking about family and friends and wishing you could be here to experience this with us…all my trepidation surrounding this journey is fading away as we realize the planning that went into our trip has really transferred to personal safety. That enhances everything!

Nothing more to report today except rain, rain, rain…

Day 8: Kwatsi Bay to Watson Cove

This cove was right around the corner and reminded us a little of our favorite San Juan island, Patos. Upon entry the Falls were all but dry on the exposed rock however this changed dramatically through the course of the day as it rained buckets of water. By happy hour water was roaring down the rocks and suddenly we were looking at three major waterfalls! Things can really change around here in the blink of an eye and this was the bonus to a dreary, wet day. Sadly we failed at both crabbing and fishing today but excelled at napping. We both felt like we are coming down with slight colds and it was so nice to regenerate to the sound of rain on the roof.

Bill keeps our windows clean and today was no exception after the rainstorm! With 1-2 inches of rain water collected in the dinghy he also washed the salt off our blue-hulled boat. There is just no describing how salty we have become on this journey. Just before retrieving our empty crab pot a flock of sea gulls tucked into a rocky outcropping of barnacles to feed upon right next to us. They were extremely vocal and entertaining at the end of our peaceful day; we had this cove all to ourselves except for them and one small seal! So far the Broughtons have been fairly uninhabited by boaters too, as we arrived just before their season really begins around the 4th of July and Canada Day. So wonderful to get away from it all! No cell service at this point so postings will be delayed and sporadic at times.

Day 7: Port Harvey to Kwatsi Bay

After stopping at Lagoon Cove for fuel (a friendly home-town tiny marina) we had an enchanting arrival to Kwatsi Bay accompanied by a pod of what we believe were white dolphins feeding all around our boat as we approached the island entrance! Seems like a once in a lifetime event but they returned around happy hour at our anchorage and we read that they a common feature of this bay. Set the crab the crab pot but with no results at the end of the day…and Bill just made it back to the boat in time to escape a deluge of rain. Rain continued most of the night.
This was a beautiful and picturesque bay and the dolphin action made it a very memorable experience. Up here these anchorages give the illusion of a high mountain lakes. It is indescribable.